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Information is current as-of February 22, 2018

Overview

The Great River Road National Scenic Byway  follows the course of America’s most iconic river, The Mississippi River, from Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico in Lousiana. Established in 1938, the byway is a network of roadways well marked by road signs with a riverboat pilot’s wheel designating which roads are part of the official route.

The Great River Road is America’s oldest and longest National Scenic Byway. With over 3,000 miles, it can take 36 hours to drive it from beginning to end without stopping. However, we suggest you take some time to experience the rich history, culture, and natural wonders all along this beautiful route.

This article focuses on the first 570 miles that starts in Itasca State Park in Minnesota and winds down through the state before crossing into Wisconsin. It is worthy to note that for most of the entire 3,000 miles, the Mississippi River borders two states – and there are state specific byway designations that don’t follow the National Byway. Here, we will follow the National Byway, by and large.

There is a lot of great information online about potential sites to see and there is even a new mobile app that can be helpful along the way. But, there is still nothing like grabbing a good old-fashioned foldable map  or (my preference) a road atlas , your printed guide  and just hit the road!

While there are literally hundreds of points of interest along this scenic drive, here are my recommendations on which ones are a ‘must see’ along the way assuming you have a week to take the trip. If you only have a long weekend, I’ll make note of those as well.

When to Go

Climate
Given the climate in Minnesota, April through October will be the best time to make this trip, although if you’re a fan of winter fun, there’s plenty to enjoy there as well (maybe another post!). Fall colors along with the various fall festivals are great times to go.
Other Seasonal Considerations

• Fall colors are beautiful along the Mississippi River
• Fall festivals are popular in Minnesota
• Native American Pow Wows
• Winter activities such as snowmobiling, downhill & cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing, skating, and sledding

Before You Go

There are some things you’ll want to purchase in advance in order to save time, money, and hassles while on the road. Here are some suggestions:

• Minnesota State Park Pass – you’re gonna need it!
• The Twin Cities Big Ticket Adventure Pass – if you’re planning to explore more of that area
• U.S. Bank Stadium Tour – get an inside look at the new Minnesota Vikings Stadium and site of Super Bowl 52
• Purchase tickets for First Avenue Night Club in Minneapolis
• Padelford Riverboats – a ‘must do’ while in St Paul.
• Purchase an Extreme Sandbox package in Hastings
• Reserve a flight with Eagle Hang Gliding in Lake City
• Mosquito & tick spray – and lots of it! Make sure it has DEET. Deep Woods Off is my personal choice that I have always had good luck with. Spray it around your legs, arms, and into your hands to rub around your face. Yea, it smells nasty, but it will be so worth it!
• A personal fan – to rid yourself of pesky gnats that can hover around at times.
• Water resistant Sunscreen. Sun reflections off of water intensifies its ability to burn. Make sure you have some – especially on your face!
• Rain gear. Just in case.
• Plenty of water and snacks for hiking and such

The Daily Itinerary

Day 0 – Arrive Near Itasca State Park or Bemidji (Friday)

We’re assuming you’re not already living near the headwaters of the Mississippi River and will need to travel here, so that’s what you’ll do on your day 0. Just get here! Once you’re in the area, here’s what you can explore depending on what time you arrive:

• Itasca State Park  – Minnesota’s oldest state park established in 1891.
• Lake Bemidji State Park
• Eat At:
  • Spike’s  for great burgers on a lake just south of Itasca State Park
  • Bemidji Brewing  for craft brews, flatbread pizzas and sandwiches if you’re in Bemidji.
• Stay At:
  • HI Mississippi Headwaters Hostel – this is a 1920’s park headquarters building converted into a hostel that includes several bunk rooms (sleeping 4-6) with comfortable beds, a well-stocked kitchen, large dining room, and common areas with board games and wifi. Typical rate in summer is $143/night.
  • Little Norway Resort includes a variety of cabins and activities (game room, playground, pontoons, kayaks, paddle boats, fishing boats) to enjoy northern Minnesota. Weekly rates are available June-August ($1300-1800) while daily rates are only available May & Sept ($200-300/night).
  • Hampton Inn & Suites – located on the south shore of Lake Bemidji which the Mississippi River flows into. 45 min drive to Itasca State Park. Typical summer rate is $190/night.

Day 1 – Itasca State Park to Grand Rapids (Saturday)

125 mi

• Breakfast: Raphael’s Bakery  – has great pastries & a hot breakfast. Family owned in current location since 1989 using ‘made from scratch’ recipes for 40 years.
• Itasca State Park

  

  • Hike the Dr Roberts Trail – 2 mile loop
  • Aiton Heights Trail and climb the lookout tower
  • Drive the Wilderness Drive Loop and stop at the Mary Gibbs Mississippi Headwaters Center.
  • Step across the Mississippi River
  • If you have time, also hike the Nicollet Trail
• Follow the Byway Signs and drive to Bemidji (45 min)
  • Paul Bunyan & Babe the Blue Ox photoshoot
• Follow the Byway Signs and drive to Pennington and then Bena
  • Stop for dinner (opens at 5pm) or at least a photo at Big Fish Supper Club . Family owned with a lot of history.
• Follow Byway Signs to Grand Rapids
  • In September, you can experience the Annual Grand Valley American Indian Lodge Pow Wow  on a Saturday (preferred) or Sunday
  • Check out the Forest History Center  which includes re-enactments and guided tours of a 1900s era logging camp as well as self-guided trails
  • You may want to stop at the Judy Garland Museum before heading out of town – at least just to say you did
  • Eat at: If you didn’t dine at Big Fish, try an Upper Midwest favorite, pasties at Pasties Plus . “An unassuming place with wonderful food”. You could also try the local craft brews at Klockow Brewing Company
  • Stay at:
    • TimberLake Lodge Hotel
    • Green Heron B&B

Day 2 – Grand Rapids to Little Falls (Sunday)

145 mi

• In Grand Rapids, MN
  • Breakfast at: Brewed Awakenings Coffeehouse
• Drive to Crosby (1.5 hours)
  • Croft Mine Historical Park will be a nice place to stretch your legs and maybe see an old mine as you’re going through historic Crosby, MN
• Drive to Brainerd (40 min)
  • Have lunch at the Bobbies Kitchen for a home cooked meal
  • You may want to check out the family run Safari North Wildlife Park  if you’re traveling with kids or love animals
  • Stop at Crow Wing State Park, hike the 5.5 mile trail along the Mississippi River and check out the old town, rent a canoe and paddle the river
• Drive to Little Falls (40 min)
  • Stop at the Minnesota Military Museum  at Camp Ripley and check out the many inside and outside exhibits (hours are 10am-5pm in the summer) about 17 min down the road.
  • Wander Little Falls Main St, one of Minnesota’s oldest towns, and check out the two outdoor murals and the dam on the river.
  • Eat at: A.T. The Black & White, a historic icon of the town that serves amazing food and craft beers from the area.
  • Stay at:
    • Country Inn & Suites
    • Clifwood Motel
    • Waller House Inn B&B

Day 3 – Little Falls to Minneapolis (Monday)

107 miles

• Breakfast at Zoomski’s Coffee Shop a ‘quirky’ place with great coffee & hot or cold breakfast
• Charles Lindberg State Park is right on the Mississippi River. Hike the trails and see the house where Charles Lindberg grew up.
• Drive to St Cloud (50 Min)
  • Explore the ‘must see’ Clemens & Munsinger Gardens
• Drive to Elk River (1 hour)
  • Step back in time at the Oliver Kelley Farm
• Drive to Minneapolis (1.25 hours) – NOTE: Minneapolis/St Paul (aka The Twin Cities) and the surrounding suburbs is a great place with many, many regional parks, art galleries, museums, restaurants, and other points of interest. You can live here and not see it all. I’m focused on the best things you can find along the Mississippi River. If you want to venture off that path, feel free, but you’ll have to do the research yourself!
  • Walk across the dam or along the river at Coon Rapids Dam Regional Park (35 min down the road)
  • Emily’s Lebanese Deli – have some great tabouli for lunch. Local Mediterranean restaurant featured on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives (aka Triple D)
  • Take a relaxing walk along the Mississippi at Boom Island Park
  • Take the short drive to your lodging for the evening, Aloft Minneapolis, park your car and check in.
  • Walk over to the Minnesota Viking’s stadium and site of Super Bowl 52: U.S. Bank Stadium. Walk around the grounds or take a tour between 10am and 4pm
  • Take a 2-3 mile walk:
    • Mill City Museum – Open Mondays 10am-5pm July & August & Mill Ruins Park
    • Cross the Stone Arch Bridge
    • Explore Father Hennepin Bluff Park & St Anthony Falls
    • Walk by the Ard Godfrey House, the oldest surviving frame home in the Twin Cities on your way to:
    • Swing into Kramarczuk’s Sausage Company and try some of their Polish sausage, sampler platter, or Ukrainian pastries. Also featured on Triple-D
  • Eat at:
    • Experience retro at Grumpy’s Bar & Grill 
    • ZenBox for Japanese Comfort Food
  • Enjoy outdoor evening music at Nicollet Island, a short walk from your hotel
  • You can also check out First Avenue, forever tied to the musician, Prince.

Day 4 – Minneapolis to St Paul (Tuesday)

30 miles

• Get up early for Al’s Breakfast for the best breakfast in Minneapolis in a diner crammed into a former alleyway – Another Triple-D stop. This place can be an hour wait on the weekends, should be able to get right in on a weekday.
• Get back on the Great River Road & drive to Mississippi Gorge Regional Park. Hike the trails and see the views. Walk the 2-mile path south along the river all the way to Minnehaha Regional Park and explore the park including the Falls, Longfellow House, Depot, and John H. Stevens Museum. You can even enjoy an ice cream from Sebastian Joe’s at the Sea Salt Cafe.
• Back at the car, drive to Hidden Falls Regional Park – take a short walk along the bluff and check out the falls
• Get off the track a bit to get an original Jucy Lucy for lunch at the 5-8 Club – featured on the Travel Channel
• Visit the Sibley Historic Site next, the early 1800s home of Minnesota’s first governor. Tours are every hour from 1pm to 4pm.
• Check out Harriet Island Park where you can take a riverboat cruise – take a sightseeing, meal, or even a beer & bacon cruise!
• Explore the other side of the river where you’ll find historic St Paul, the Science Museum of Minnesota, the Minnesota History Center, the James J Hill House, and the Alexander Ramsey House. St Paul also has a skyway system for inclement weather.
• Eat at:
  • Afro deli for exquisite local & healthy African dishes
  • Vieux Carre for tasty New Orleans inspired delights
• Stay at:
  • Splurge and book a room at the historic St Paul Hotel
  • If you’re on the cheap, book an efficiency room at Hotel 340, the ‘only independent boutique hotel in St Paul’.
• Check out the nightlife in St Paul
  • Black Dog Café – Jazz & bluegrass most days of the week
  • Patrick McGovern’s Pub – charming pub in a 19th century building
  • Live music at Minnesota Music Café

Day 5 – St Paul to Red Wing (Wednesday)

60 miles

• Breakfast at Evan’s Organic Eatery. All 5-star ratings so far.
• Drive to Hastings, MN (45 min)
  • Stop at Lake Rebecca Park for a scenic overlook over the Mississippi River
  • Then check out the scenic waterfall, bridge & old mill ruins at Vermillion Falls Park
  • If you can splurge, check out Extreme Sandbox where you can operate heavy machinery for fun!
  • If you’re looking for lunch now, check out Kings Place in Hastings
• Carry on to Red Wing (47 min)
  • If you like to gamble, just 17 min down the road you’ll be driving right by Treasure Island Resort and Casino that also hosts big name live entertainment in its indoor and outdoor venues. Or, come back later after visiting Red Wing.
  • Tour the Red Wing Shoe Company Museum and see the world’s largest boot! Besides, it’s free.
  • Visit the free Red Wing Pottery Museum (open until 5pm), and if you get here by 1pm, you can tour the factory as well!
  • Hike Barns Bluff Trail loop
  • Walk around downtown Red Wing and check out the historic (supposedly haunted!) St James Hotel. If you’re staying the night in Red Wing, book a room here!
  • Enjoy high tea at Wisteria Twig Café & Tea Room
  • Eat at:
    • Red Wing Brewery for craft brews and pizza
    • Kelly’s Tap House for craft beers, award winning wings, and specialty cocktails
  • Drive up to Sorins Bluff and watch the sunset

Day 6 – Red Wing to La Crescent (Thursday)

98 miles

• Enjoy an inventive pastry or donut for breakfast at Hanisch Bakery
• Drive to Frontenac (15 min)
  • Hike the Lower/Upper Bluff Trail loop as well as the Sand Point Trail that includes a boardwalk at Frontenac State Park
  • Visit Old Frontenac on the Mississippi River
• Head back out and stop at Lake City Marina (12 min) for another view of Lake Pepin, where water skiing was invented!
  • If you’re even slightly adventurous, try Eagle Hang Gliding! Come on, even kids as young as 5-yrs-old can do it! You may even get a chance to fly with eagles!
  • If you’ve worked up an appetite, eat at Chickadee Cottage Café for a homecooked meal in a quaint, homey atmosphere or get an ice cream at The Scoop
• Speaking of eagles, drive to Wabasha (20 min), the town from ‘Grumpy Old Men’ and check out the National Eagle Center where you can learn about eagles and visit the ones they have rescued.
• Make a stop at Slippery’s Tavern, made famous from the movie, for a bite and/or a beer
• Head back down the road (10 min) and stop at Lark Toy Store & Museum a family run business that is sure to delight even adults!
• Visit the sand dunes at Kellogg-Weaver Dunes SNA (14 min)
• Stop at John A Latsch State Park (15 min) and take the short hike up the bluff for the view.
• Drive to Winona, MN (20 min)
  • Take the drive up to Garvin Heights Lookout for a panoramic view of the city and Mississippi River.
• Drive further down the road (17 min) and see Pickwick Mill a 150 year old working model of a commercial gristmill
• Next stop is Great River Bluffs State Park where you can hike wooded trails to various lookouts.
• Continue on to La Crescent, MN where the Great River Road crosses over to La Crosse, Wisconsin.
  • If it’s fall, make sure to see if Leidels Apple Stand is open. It has been an icon in the area for over 100 years.
  • Another icon to check out is Bauer’s Market. It has been a family owned business since 1957 and sells local produce, flowers, and of course apples!
• Eat at:
  • For dinner, head over to La Cross and try The Waterfront Restaurant and Tavern for some locally sourced beef and fresh seafood.
• Stay at:
  • The Charmant Hotel – a 67-room luxury boutique hotel in downtown La Crosse, WI
  • Hampton Inn & Suites La Crosse downtown

Day 7 –La Crescent/La Crosse to Where-ever (Friday)

• On the final day, return to your destination or carry on into Wisconsin!

I hope you enjoyed this itinerary along the Great River Road in Minnesota. If I missed your favorite place to stop, please let me know in the comments.  Don’t forget to download your printable itinerary here!

As always, thanks for reading!

Kristi Schultz, aka The Trippy Tripster